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Egokey

5 devlogs
5h 24m 31s

I’m setting out to build the Ego Key—a small finger size , hardware passkey. The goal is to create a secure, plug-and-play 2FA / FIDO-like device that is compact enough to live on a keychain, low-power enough to run off any standard USB port, and …

I’m setting out to build the Ego Key—a small finger size , hardware passkey. The goal is to create a secure, plug-and-play 2FA / FIDO-like device that is compact enough to live on a keychain, low-power enough to run off any standard USB port, and uses the internal 2MB flash of the RP2354A to keep the component count low.

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ego

Shipped this project!

My original plan was to ship this project and show off the final, assembled hardware to you all right away.

The manufacturing files have been sent out, but PCB Power are taking much longer than usual to process and ship the boards right now. Lead times are stretched, so I don’t have the physical hardware in hand just yet. but that is just part of the hardware development process.

As soon as the bare PCBs arrive in the mail, I will post an update, fire up the soldering iron, and show you exactly how the physical boards turned out.

and during my ship its only showing 3 devlog but i have 5 , so check the project page

ego

The schematic and PCB layout for Hardware Revision 1.0 are complete. The project is currently awaiting physical board fabrication. Firmware development tailored for FIDO2/U2F protocols will commence once the hardware is assembled and verified.

hardwere is release now
https://github.com/ego10-ai/ego-key/releases/tag/v1.0

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I am really telling you component placement is 90% of the battle. If you get the components in the right spots, the board practically routes itself.

I started by defining the board outline around the USB-A PCB-edge contacts. This dictated the width of the entire device.
then I placed the USBLC6-2SC6 ESD protection diode and the 500mA PTC fuse as close to the USB pads as physically possible. For ESD protection to actually work, it needs to intercept spikes before they travel deep into the board.

Once the last trace was connected, I flooded the top and bottom layers with a Ground copper pour. This ties everything together, provides a short return path for signals, and helps dissipate any heat from the LDO and MCU.

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Just started designing the PCB for my Ego key
currently using a USB-A_PCB (where the PCB itself acts as the male USB-A plug)

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FINALLY SCHEMETIC COMPLETE

  • The RP2354A makes the initial wiring surprisingly straightforward.
  • Because it has 2MB of flash memory stacked internally, I didn’t need to route an external QSPI flash chip. That alone saved a significant amount of space and component count.
    The base circuit came together quickly:
  • the MCU, the required decoupling capacitors,
  • a 12MHz crystal oscillator (ABM8-272-T3)
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I’m using a new Raspberry Pi RP2354A For the brain of the operation It has 2MB of stacked flash built right into the chip and dual Hazard3 RISC-V / ARM cores, which makes it an absolute powerhouse for a EGO KEY project.

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